ISSUE 008
DECOLONIZING OUR ASPIRATIONS
UNPACKING THE WELLNESS INDUSTRIAL COMPLEX
originally released 15 January 2021
As we all learned throughout 2020, taking time to consciously care for ourselves and tend to our minds is essential during these stressful times. I think this is interesting, because in 2019, many people were declaring the wellness trend, "over," with the sentiment that we've reached "peak wellness" (granted, some have been claiming this since 2016). But, obviously, being well is integral to our survival, and this core meaning became more important than ever throughout the pandemic. There is definitely a tension though, between our desire to indulge in 'wellness' rituals and associated products/services, and the realization that this has become a massive trend that brands love to play into. Is it possible to engage with wellness and partake in self care without furthering the problematic aspects of what many have called the wellness industrial complex? (the answer is yes - kind of - and there are some suggested resources at the end if you want to scroll down!)
Before 2020, vocal critics on this topic were mostly concerned with the capitalistic and misogynistic issues within the wellness trend. But over this past summer, we finally saw rising discussions on the racism at the root of this trend - which has always been what's bothered me most. This trillion dollar industry was built almost entirely by co-opting and whitewashing traditional ideas - concepts, techniques, exercises, remedies - from ancient cultures of people of color. And until recently, this was very rarely discussed. But in fact, this short piece from back in January of last year is one of my favorites on the topic of decolonizing wellness. Kalpana Mohanty, a PhD student at Harvard, explains that although there has been plenty of skepticism of Goop culture and many of the associated outlandish wellness trends, these critics seem to completely miss the foundational issue that "the entire industry hinges on traditional and spiritual practices of the non-western world that have been weaponized and monetized for value in the west. Gwyneth and her peers serve up a bastardized version of traditional aryurvedic beliefs...North and South American indigenous practices, and Chinese medicine, in a way that takes money away from marginalized people who originated the practices." Not to mention, that many times these whitewashed incarnations are often divorced from any context, devaluing the true power of these ancient practices by stripping them of meaning. So, as Mohanty writes, "the next time you listen to a podcast on wellness, go to a yoga class, or make a turmeric latte, think about whose culture you're borrowing from, think about your own place in the racial, class based, ableist, gender hierarchy, and think deeply about who gets to participate in the wellness practices you rely on and who gets excluded."
Image Credits: Hannah Kim via Eadam Blog
The problematic manifestations arising from this core issue are endless. On a personal level, I've always struggled with the commoditization of yoga and, after several uncomfortable experiences, generally avoid going to yoga classes (Far Near Media offers a great overview on this complex topic, and here's a useful list of 20 BIPOC yoga instructors to support). Another examples is discussed in this beautifully written piece by Tasnim Ahmed, who shares her feelings towards the way turmeric has been co-opted by the wellness industry, "whitewashing it just enough that it erases historical and cultural context but imprinting upon it exotic fetishism...exoticizing an ingredient which has been a household and medicinal staple in South Asian, South East Asian, Indigenous, East African, South African, West African, and North African communities for thousands of years." But she notes that some promise is seen in the reclaiming of these narratives by BIPOC-owned brands entering this space more recently - brands like Golde, Diaspora Co, and Ranavat, which are all featured in the Revisionary Shop: "The ethos of 'for us, by us' is central to these Black and POC-owned brands: they control the narrative...Their work is vital not only because they protect and preserve cultural practices and traditions, but also because they empower people and communities to take pride in and hold close what inherently belongs to them, making it permissible, encouraging even - to embrace home and the feeling of belonging."
I do believe that supporting BIPOC-owned businesses operating in the wellness space is one way that we can indulge in these practices with a conscious approach that has a positive impact. In the scope of a trillion dollar industry, none of the biggest wellness brands are BIPOC-owned, despite the fact that most of the products and services offered have roots within BIPOC communities. As consumers, we have the power to change this dynamic. To start, I've created a Revisionary Wellness Edit, where you can shop a curated selection of 30 products, including those pictured above. I've also highlighted some of my personal favorites further below.
Beyond products, it's also important to support BIPOC-led wellness communities and to prioritize relearning our understanding of wellbeing from within these spaces, with many now offering virtual classes and experiences. One of the key differentiators is a clear attitude shift away from the often 'fluffy' language and elitist aesthetics of the mainstream wellness zeitgeist, and towards a more inclusive ethos that emphasizes healing and progress. Here are a few of my favorite resources that I'd encourage you to check out -
Studio Ananda | a space and community dedicated to healing through an anti-capitalist and anti-colonial lens. created by Fariha Roisin and Prinita Thevarajah, who ask us to think critically about questions like, 'how does the wellness industry replicate the status quo, and what does a pro-liberation, anti-colonial healing practice look like?' their interview series deeply engages with these issues through the perspective of fascinating BIPOC wellness leaders, while the Practitioner Index offers a very useful guide to mission-aligned herbalists, therapists, and more.
Reset | once a physical studio that I had the pleasure of frequenting, now an online community and podcast led by Liz Tran. while we often think about personal and professional growth separately, Reset makes a powerful case for intersecting these trajectories to think about progress holistically. I love and highly recommend the weekly podcast (and I'm not a podcast person at all), as well as some of the fantastic visualizations shared on Instagram.
Healhaus | a Black-owned wellness space in Brooklyn with virtual class offerings that span yoga, meditation, reiki, and more.
Yogawalla | founded by Indian-American yoga instructor Jesal Parikh, this community aims to reclaim the practice by reconnecting with its true roots while retaining its modern relevance. here's a list of Parikh's resources and writings, as well as a guide to 30+ BIPOC yoga teachers you can follow.
Ogor Chukwuu | a Black designer focused on racial wellness, creator of the 'Making the Body a Home' course helping BIPOC to unpack internalized racism in pursuit of better mental wellbeing (also offering Unpacking White Superiority, a course for white folx). space in Brooklyn with virtual class offerings that span yoga, meditation, reiki, and more.
Dive in Well | a Black-owned community space dedicated to building a more equitable wellness industry, offering conversations, webinars, courses and more
Drawing on her own heritage and relationship with her grandmother, founder Stephanie Zheng formulates skincare products and designs tools in collaboration with TCM practitioners. I personally own and love this Jade Massaging Comb (which I use with the Aceite de Moska hair oil by Ceremonia).
Creators Karina and Mennlay have built their company upon a foundational mission of inclusivity, aiming to 'dignify, amplify, and revive menopausal bodies, trans bodies, differently abled bodies, nonbinary bodies, and all bodies left out of our society's gaze."
she later reconnected with these whole flowering herbs as an adult, gaining a greater understanding of their holistic health benefits and energetic value. The Floral Tasting Collection offers 3x of each of their 3 flower teas.
Perhaps most distinctive are the brand's holistic sets that include herbal tea blends along with skincare products perfect for an indulgent self-care experience at home.
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