ISSUE 011
DECOLONIZING OUR ASPIRATIONS
IT’S FASHION WEEK?
originally released 16 February 2021
click here to shop the Black History Month Impact Initiative
So, I guess, it's New York Fashion Week...
The seasonal event has been in a state of flux for the past few years, and the pandemic has definitely accelerated its disruption. Do we care anymore? What's the point of it anyway? What originally began as an internal industry practice had, over the past couple of deades, evolved into essentially a marketing activation for brands - but in today's state of affairs, the idea of extravagant runway shows seems out of touch with reality. Plus, the lack of in-person gathering has forced the event to drastically fracture / splinter in a way that feels chaotic. This WWD article goes into detail on the matter, and brings up the idea that "as retail and media hierarchies crumble," perhaps this will open up opportunities for progressive, young talent to break through. A similar idea is mentioned in this Business of Fashion piece about the unbundling of Fashion Week: “In the absence of some of the bigger brands...it really paved the way for new voices to be heard." In my opinoin, this is where the excitement lies - in the midst of the chaos. If you're looking for some creative inspiration, here are some interesting things to explore:
The Black in Fashion Council collaborated with Depop to launch a video series with new content premiering all week. Watch everything here.
BIFC is also spotlighting 16 emerging Black designers with its showroom. Learn more here.
Harlem Fashion Row is hosting a Digital Fashion Summit with talks and discussion all day on Thursday. RSVP here.
This longer piece from last year on the history of Harlem's fashion shows is a fascinating read.
If you're interested in supporting some emerging Black-owned fashion designers, don't forget to check out our selection of curated apparel, accessories, and jewelry from brands participating in the Black History Month Impact Initiative. This week, I'm also excited to share a new collaboration with Efiba Kyiamah - the collage artist behind Black Beryl. You can explore her collages and curation at this page.
When thinking about the fashion industry, it's important to consider who is making the clothes we buy, and the impact of these processes on communities around the world.
A recent Business of Fashion podcast discusses these topics, exploring "how the fashion industry must address the systemic inequality and racism buried in its supply chain."
The Slow Factory recently launched its second semester of Open Education - a donation-based virtual learning program.
You can view the schedule here and sign up to attend seminars on topics like Fashion & Resistance, Fashion & Prison Labor, Fashion & Cultural Heritage, The History of Plastic, The History of Regenerative Agriculture, and more!
In the first class of the semester, Fashion & Colonialism, Celine Semaan introduced the concept of oppressive aesthetics - the idea that aesthetic culture is intertwined with systemic racism and colonialism:
“These aesthetics posit themselves as naturally superior, and have been used by white colonial powers for expansion and justified cultural erasure...”
The concept of "oppressive aesthetics" is aligned with the mission of Revisionary. If you're newer to our community, I'd like to share this post on the topic:
For centuries, privileged gatekeepers have dictated what constitutes good taste. Under the guise of "aesthetic preference," these gatekeepers in retail and media continue to systemically marginalize creators of color.
By centering these creators, we can begin to reframe our aesthetic vision. This also leads into our belief that centering creators of color can help us begin to decolonize what we deem aspirational (the origins of this newsletter's name).
If you're interested in delving deeper into this topic, I'd highly recommend reading our first issue, which is archived here.
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